Vegetables Gardening - Growing Organic Vegetables

I have a friend who tried it just last year...seemed to work to draw the
squash bugs...for a while they were mystified that the bait-cukes and bug
bodies kept vanishing, but raccoonie tracks gave us a good idea
where...seemed as long as the pie plates had "snacks", they left the rest
of the garden alone, so i guess it was a win/win.

schulz

.............
Hi Everyone,
> Again, Jim is right on. When we had a big outbreak of CMV (cucumber
> mosaic virus) which affects over 1200 varieties of flowers and vegetables,
> the
> virus expert that came to our garden from the Co Op Extension at U. C.
> Riverside said that composting is where a lot of diseases come from.
> She
> advised us to stop composting and I did. We did not ban composting but
> did put
> out the word.
>
> I just heard about a hint but have not tried it out. It is supposed to
> work on the squash bug. Am going to put it out to the group and if it
> works,
> let me know so I can put it in our arsenal of bug cures. I don't know
> what the magic is here but anything is worth a try.
>
> Get a tin pie plate, add a water and slice a cucumber into the plate.
> Place near your squash that is infested. They say the squash bug enters
> and
> that is the end of it. I hope this works, garden friends.
>
> Joanne
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
> From: jbkennard@foodforeveryone.org
> Reply-to: MittleiderMethodGardening@yahoogroups.com
> To: MittleiderMethodGardening@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: 2/17/2012 11:35:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time
> Subj: [MittleiderMethodGardening] Controlling Bugs - The Mittleider
> Solution
>
>
>
>
>
> Group: Here's my answer to Veda's earlier question.
>
> Q. Controlling Bugs - My worst gardening problem is bugs - and all their
> relatives!!! Somehow (see my answer below - JK) I have gotten an
> infestation
> of squash/sting bugs in my garden, and for the last two years they have
> destroyed my cucumbers, pumpkins, and squash!!!! I try to garden
> organically
> (compost piles? See below - JK) and not use pesticides, and have tried
> pulling up all the damaged/old plants, soapy water; smashing those little
> stinkers, and nearly any other thing other than resorting to some sort of
> pesticide. I am considering renting a burner to burn anything near the
> garden so
> I could kill any residual hibernating eggs. If anyone has a plan to get
> rid
> of these, please share! We are losing ALL of our beautiful plentiful
> cucumber crops (Mittleider Method grows a ton of cucumbers), and I am
> desperate
> to get rid of these things. (We live in the mid southeast.)
>
> I also had a beetle that took out my green beans that was not a Japanese
> bean beetle. I heard that it was a beetle from South America that had
> migrated - looked like a yellow lady bug. Other than bugs, everything has
> grown
> like gangbusters! Veda
>
> A. So many people beg for answers on controlling bugs, while at the same
> time providing bug hotels to assure they live healthy, prosperous lives
> â€"
> among the proliferation of leaves on their plants, in the weeds so often
> ubiquitous (everywhere) in their gardens, and in the piles of decaying
> plant
> parts filling their compost piles, which harbor them and give them a
> place to
> over-winter. Certainly burning "anything near the garden" could be a good
> idea, if you have any habitat that is bug friendly.
>
> The best offense is a good defense, and the cultural practices employed
> in
> growing a Mittleider Method garden go a long way to assuring bugs are not
> a problem. NO compost piles are allowed, unless they are composted at
> over
> 140 degrees 24 hours per day for 3+ weeks (not one in 100 compost piles
> gets this treatment). NO weeds are allowed in the garden or even on the
> periphery. Excess and old leaves, plus any touching the ground are pruned
> and
> immediately removed from the garden area.
>
> Water is applied only to the root zone of the plants, leaving aisles and
> periphery dry. Plants are fed and watered often to assure fast healthy
> growth and greatest resistance to bugs and diseases.
>
> Daily inspection of plants and removal of all evidence of bugs, including
> eggs is essential. Look for eggs on the underside of leaves and on stems.
> Rub off all eggs and nymphs, and remove adult bugs as soon as they
> appear.
>
> Floating row cover is NOT recommended unless it is removed regularly and
> inspections are conducted as described above.
>
> Growing vining plants vertically can help reduce bug populations, by
> getting them off the ground and up where inspection and control are
> easier. And
> even shorter plants can be staked, to keep them off the ground.
>
> Planting resistant varieties can be helpful also. As an example, yellow
> squash and pumpkins are more susceptible to squash bugs than are
> butternut
> and acorn squash.
>
> Jim Kennard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

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