Vegetables Gardening - Growing Organic Vegetables

I just read the book All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew. An older version of this book has been around for 20 years. I noticed some similarities between his method and the Mittleider Method. They both better utilize the soil, recommend vertical growing, use a type of raised beds, create a "greenhouse effect" around the beds, minimize weeding, control watering, and maintain good soil. However, the biggest difference I see is that in SFG he "creates" and purchases the soil and uses only compost. I prefer the Mittleider Method for many reasons but one is that I don't want to buy soil. It is cheaper to amend than purchase. I will continue to use MM because I have plenty of room. However, I can see some advantages with SFG where space is limited. What would a "merger" between the two systems result in? What if the square foot layout was used with existing soil? What if the ratio of fertilizer was adapted to square footage rather than linear footage? What if the MM water system were modified for the 4 x 4 beds of the SFG method? Got answers or thoughts anyone?

PS Johnson & Group:

There is a great deal that could be said by way of comparisons between SFG and The Mittleider Method of gardening. I am not prepared to address the differences in detail right now, but will make a few observations. Others' experiences will be welcome for consideration also:

Mel's spacing recommendations leave much to be desired, according to Dr. Mittleider. Many of the larger plants need more than 1 square foot of space, and production suffers substantially when they are crowded.

Because flowers only produce blossoms and need less nutrition, success is easier to achieve in a flower garden using SFG methods. Careful observation of pictures in the SFG book and video reveals flowers are the most common crops displayed.

The Mittleider Method does not recommend growing one or two items, but is designed for real production, in order to feed people from their garden.

I am seriously considering writing a book about the use of compost/manure vs natural mineral nutrients, because there is so much misinformation out there. For now the following will have to suffice:

Plants require 13 water-soluble mineral nutrients, which are absorbed through the root hairs.

These nutrients are needed throughout the plants' growing cycle.

Using organic material requires that decomposition occur to change non water-soluble organic material to water-soluble inorganic minerals, taking much time and requiring bacteria, worms, etc. to accomplish.

Introduction of plant diseases, weed seeds, and bugs into the garden is common when using compost/manure.

Produce grown using manure and infected with e-coli, salmonella, etc. is sometimes encountered, causing sickness, and even occasional death.

No accurate measurement of actual nutrition provided is possible when using compost/manure. This accounts for great differences in crop yields from garden to garden.

Much of the nutrition in the original crop is lost to the animal eating the crop, in the urine - which is very seldom collected - and to leaching and volitalization, leaving only a small % for the next crop.

Application of compost/manure is typically done one time - before planting - with 10-20 times the optimum amount of fertilizer salts being applied to the soil at one time.

Burning of tiny seedlings is common from excess salinity.

Fouling of the ground water is caused by leaching of the excess salts into the subsoil.

Within 1-2 months the plants are hungry because the nutrients are gone, and the long-season crops stop producing.

Worldwide supplies of manure and compost are inadequate to supply the needs of 6 billion people.

Nature has, on the other hand, provided inexhaustible supplies of natural minerals in rock deposits throughout the world.

Mining these minerals, and concentrating them, while removing impurities and heavy metals, etc. provides inexpensive, clean, and exact amounts of water-soluble compounds in sufficient quantities so that everyone in the world can grow their own food.

No soil amendments are necessary.

No diseases or weed seeds/bugs are introduced into the garden.

Natural minerals are applied to the soil in very small amounts, as plants need them, with no loss to leaching, etc.

Natural water-soluble minerals are immediately available to the plants, with no time lost for decomposition, etc.

No guesswork is employed, therefore uniform growth and healthy plants are the norm, throughout the growing season.

This is why we are able to promise everyone "a great garden in any soil".

Jim Kennard

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